Everywhere I go in Romania, there seem to be cats. They stretch across sunlit steps, curl themselves into café chairs, disappear beneath parked cars, and nap against old stone walls as though they have inherited the streets. Some clearly belong to someone, while others seem to belong to a courtyard, an apartment block, a restaurant, or perhaps simply themselves. What fascinates me is not their presence so much as the small infrastructure of care that surrounds them. I notice