Every holiday table rests on labor that begins long before anyone sits down to eat. Someone decides what will be served, remembers what everyone likes, works around allergies and preferences, makes the list, shops for ingredients, checks what is already in the cupboard, calculates when everything needs to go into the oven, and notices the thing everyone else has forgotten. Then come the more visible tasks: chopping, kneading, stirring, lifting, tasting, setting the table, was