Autumn in Transylvania is breathtaking. Golden forests spread across the Carpathians, mist curls through the mountains and settles around medieval towers, and the markets fill with apples, walnuts, mushrooms, and the abundance of the season. It is the kind of beauty I dreamed about before moving here, and there are moments when it still catches me completely by surprise. Yet, as the air cools and the leaves begin to fall, I find myself aching for another kind of autumn—the on