There is something strange about the way we celebrate harvest now. We decorate our homes with wheat and apples and pumpkins. We put little ceramic mushrooms on our shelves, light candles that smell vaguely of orchards and woodsmoke, and welcome the arrival of autumn as though it were primarily a change in atmosphere. There is nothing wrong with loving the beauty of the season—I most certainly do—but underneath all of those familiar autumn symbols is something much older and d