Most Americans who celebrate Easter assume everyone celebrates on the same Sunday. The date is familiar, the traditions broadly recognizable — baskets, eggs, a church service, a family meal. What far fewer Americans know is that for the roughly 300 million Orthodox Christians in the world, Easter falls on an entirely different Sunday, sometimes weeks later, calculated by a different calendar and a different set of ecclesiastical rules. In 2026, Western Easter falls on April 5

Today is Floriile , Flowers' Sunday, and the weather in Bran decided to celebrate, too. The sun is out, the air has finally conceded to spring, and the people around me seem to be doing exactly what the holiday asks: visiting outside, turning toward the light, paying attention to the flowers. As an immigrant, I am continually thrilled by the rhythm of the unexpected holidays here. I did not know that the Orthodox calendar would hand me a holiday whose entire orientation is to

There are moments when the world feels so unstable that moral certainty becomes deeply reassuring. Lines harden, patience thins, and the pressure to take the correct position becomes constant. What begins as a desire to protect something important can gradually become a demand for moral purity, where commitment is measured not only by what we are trying to accomplish, but by how completely everyone agrees about what is right, what is acceptable, and who is permitted to belong

They are not the Germans we usually talk about when we remember the Nazi era. They are not primarily remembered through deportations, ghettos, or camps, although some who initially escaped would later be caught by the German advance across Europe. They were among those who left Germany while the future was still uncertain: Jews, political opponents, academics, writers, artists, professionals, and others who understood that something fundamental had changed before anyone could

One of the most repeated moral claims of the current moment is that silence is complicity. There is truth in it. Silence can protect abusive institutions, allow lies to become conventional wisdom, and leave vulnerable people standing alone while everyone around them decides that speaking would be inconvenient. History contains more than enough examples of people who recognized what was happening and chose the safety of looking away. The warning exists for a reason. But somewh

For a long time, I accepted the New Year the way most of us are taught to: a clean line between what was and what might be, a moment of collective pause followed almost immediately by the expectation of renewal. We count down together, turn the calendar, and wake the next morning in a year that has somehow been declared new. I have always liked the ritual more than I believed the story behind it. There is something lovely about gathering with friends at a threshold, raising a

For most of human history, eating together was not merely symbolic. It was practical. Anthropologists use the term commensality to describe the practice of eating together, but communities did not need a word for the material relationships surrounding a meal. Food had to be grown, gathered, hunted, stored, preserved, prepared, and distributed, and very few people could accomplish all of that entirely alone. Harvests failed. Winters came. Animals had to be slaughtered and pres

People often ask why I chose Romania, and I always have trouble giving a short answer because there wasn’t one reason. It was the result of a lot of research into what actually makes a country livable: safety, political stability, cost of living, healthcare, immigration, infrastructure, and the realities of daily life. But I was also looking for somewhere I could imagine genuinely enjoying my life. I cared about landscape, seasons, history, culture, community, and whether I t

There is a kind of quiet in northeastern Romania that winter seems to make larger. Snow absorbs the ordinary sounds of a village, fields narrow beneath the cold, and the year appears to be drawing inward. Then, in the final days of December, that stillness can break open with drums. You hear them before the bears arrive, the beat traveling through streets and courtyards, followed by bells, whistles, shouting, and the movement of people toward the sound. Then come the enormous

There are cities that decorate for Christmas, and then there is Brașov, a place that seems particularly made for winter. As December settles over the Carpathians, darkness comes early, snow gathers on the mountains, and the medieval center transforms beneath thousands of lights. Garlands stretch between centuries-old buildings, stars hang above the streets, and Piața Sfatului glows beneath the surrounding rooftops. This is my first Christmas in Romania, and one of the things

My need to explain myself was louder when I was younger. My confidence filled rooms, asserting things I only half understood, held opinions the way you hold something you're not sure you're allowed to put down. I look back at some of those positions and wince. But I was also learning something in that period that took years to finish learning: what my own voice actually sounds like when it isn't performing for a room. Over time, my fire settled into something steadier and mor

When I asked a local in Brașov to explain the difference between Catholicism and Orthodoxy, he didn’t quote scripture or mention rituals. He smiled and said simply, “We didn’t have crusades, the Inquisition, or witch trials.” It was such an abrupt answer that I have remembered it ever since. I had expected something about the pope, perhaps, or icons, saints, liturgy, or the theological dispute over the filioque. Instead, he answered a question about religion with history. Mor

When most people think of Transylvanian folklore, they picture a familiar world of haunted castles, restless dead, protective herbs, old churches, and stories carried through Romanian, Hungarian, and Saxon communities. Yet another tradition has existed within the same mountains and valleys for centuries, woven so thoroughly into the cultural landscape that it can be difficult to determine where one community’s stories end and another’s begin. Roma people have lived in the ter

Freedom of movement rarely depends on a single unlocked door. To leave a country, you need some combination of valid documents, access to your money, functioning transportation, permission to cross borders, and somewhere on the other side willing to receive you. Under ordinary circumstances, those systems work so quietly together that we experience movement as a simple personal choice. We decide to go somewhere, buy a ticket, gather whatever documents are necessary, and leave

When autumn arrives in Transylvania, the air grows sharp and metallic, and the forests shed their color until the bones of the mountains begin to show through. Smoke rises from the first hearth fires, curling above tiled roofs and lingering in the cold. The villages seem to draw inward. Gardens empty, wood is stacked, evenings come earlier, and the mountains that felt green and generous in summer become darker around their edges. I came to this season carrying Halloween with

This message is an invitation to stay awake. The world is shifting quickly, and uncertainty has a way of making people search for a deadline. The question keeps surfacing: How long do we have? How long before leaving becomes harder, before circumstances change, before the options available today are no longer available tomorrow? I don’t think anyone can answer that honestly. There is no reliable countdown, and history does not give us a neat sequence of stages that tells us w

Before Dracula made Transylvania synonymous with vampires, Romanian folklore already had its own restless dead. They were called strigoi, and they did not necessarily live in distant castles or belong to another world. They could be people you knew. That familiarity is what makes the strigoi so unsettling. The threat did not always come from somewhere beyond the village. It could come from the cemetery where your own family was buried, from someone who had recently died, or e

The Keeper of the Flame In every culture, there are keepers of the flame—those who carry the memory of a people across generations, adapting it to new languages, new screens, and new worlds. In Romania, one of those keepers is Corneliu Țepeluș, a filmmaker, storyteller, and cultural ambassador whose life has been shaped by the timeless human pursuit of immortality—not the kind that denies death, but the kind that ensures meaning endures. His work bridges the mystical and the

Some subjects are hard to look at. This is one of them. The moments before repression rarely feel like the ones that come after. They unfold slowly, sometimes politely, often bureaucratically. A security agency is reorganized. Emergency authority is expanded. Military forces acquire a greater domestic role. Political opposition is described increasingly as a threat to order rather than a legitimate part of public life. None of these things, standing alone, proves what will ha

In the heart of Brașov’s old town, framed by the Carpathian foothills, stands a building that has watched the city change around it for more than six hundred years. Locals call it Biserica Neagră, the Black Church. Its enormous Gothic walls have survived fire, religious upheaval, political transformation, war, restoration, and the gradual shrinking of the Saxon community that built it. Yet it has never become simply a monument to what was here before. Bells still ring. Worshi