Autumn in Transylvania is breathtaking. Golden forests spread across the Carpathians, mist curls through the mountains and settles around medieval towers, and the markets fill with apples, walnuts, mushrooms, and the abundance of the season. It is the kind of beauty I dreamed about before moving here, and there are moments when it still catches me completely by surprise. Yet, as the air cools and the leaves begin to fall, I find myself aching for another kind of autumn—the on

Most Americans who celebrate Easter assume everyone celebrates on the same Sunday. The date is familiar, the traditions broadly recognizable — baskets, eggs, a church service, a family meal. What far fewer Americans know is that for the roughly 300 million Orthodox Christians in the world, Easter falls on an entirely different Sunday, sometimes weeks later, calculated by a different calendar and a different set of ecclesiastical rules. In 2026, Western Easter falls on April 5

Humans have always told stories. We have told them in times of abundance and scarcity, around fires that kept the dark at bay and in the dark itself when no fire was available. Stories preserve knowledge, entertain children, explain the inexplicable, reinforce values, challenge authority, carry memory, and sometimes simply make a long night shorter. But beneath all of those uses is something even more basic. When something happens to us, we turn it into narrative. We ask what

Across millennia, humans have gathered around something warm and shared. A fire. A table. A voice. The hearth was not only a source of heat, but one of the places where ordinary life continued. Food was prepared there, work was done, children listened, news traveled, memories were repeated, and stories passed from one person to another. When the world outside was uncertain or hostile, the hearth offered continuity through the simple persistence of these things. Story lived th

Every holiday table rests on labor that begins long before anyone sits down to eat. Someone decides what will be served, remembers what everyone likes, works around allergies and preferences, makes the list, shops for ingredients, checks what is already in the cupboard, calculates when everything needs to go into the oven, and notices the thing everyone else has forgotten. Then come the more visible tasks: chopping, kneading, stirring, lifting, tasting, setting the table, was

For a long time, I accepted the New Year the way most of us are taught to: a clean line between what was and what might be, a moment of collective pause followed almost immediately by the expectation of renewal. We count down together, turn the calendar, and wake the next morning in a year that has somehow been declared new. I have always liked the ritual more than I believed the story behind it. There is something lovely about gathering with friends at a threshold, raising a

For most of human history, eating together was not merely symbolic. It was practical. Anthropologists use the term commensality to describe the practice of eating together, but communities did not need a word for the material relationships surrounding a meal. Food had to be grown, gathered, hunted, stored, preserved, prepared, and distributed, and very few people could accomplish all of that entirely alone. Harvests failed. Winters came. Animals had to be slaughtered and pres

I’ve been carrying a heavy mix of emotions lately. Back home, in the streets where I grew up, innocent and hardworking Mexican immigrants are being taken into big unmarked trucks — disappeared under the cover of night. Families are left wondering where their loved one is and if they will ever see them again. Dreams are erased. People who have built lives among people they thought were friends are treated like they don’t belong anymore. Watching those videos makes something in

Thanksgiving used to be one of the most intentional days of my year. Not because of patriotism or tradition—actually the opposite. For a decade, I opened my home to anyone who wanted a place to land. My table wasn’t about turkey or spectacle; it was an annual practice in truth-telling and community. I cooked Indigenous foods, played PBS’s We Shall Remain , and held space for conversation about the real history of the holiday. It was part education, part ritual, and part quiet

There are cities that decorate for Christmas, and then there is Brașov, a place that seems particularly made for winter. As December settles over the Carpathians, darkness comes early, snow gathers on the mountains, and the medieval center transforms beneath thousands of lights. Garlands stretch between centuries-old buildings, stars hang above the streets, and Piața Sfatului glows beneath the surrounding rooftops. This is my first Christmas in Romania, and one of the things

Romania stands at a cultural crossroads. It is a member of the European Union, governed by European human-rights obligations and increasingly connected to a continent where LGBTQ+ rights have expanded dramatically over the past generation. At the same time, it remains a deeply traditional country in many respects, shaped by Orthodox Christianity, family-centered social expectations, the complicated inheritance of communism, and a strong instinct toward privacy in personal lif

When autumn arrives in Transylvania, the air grows sharp and metallic, and the forests shed their color until the bones of the mountains begin to show through. Smoke rises from the first hearth fires, curling above tiled roofs and lingering in the cold. The villages seem to draw inward. Gardens empty, wood is stacked, evenings come earlier, and the mountains that felt green and generous in summer become darker around their edges. I came to this season carrying Halloween with

Before Dracula made Transylvania synonymous with vampires, Romanian folklore already had its own restless dead. They were called strigoi, and they did not necessarily live in distant castles or belong to another world. They could be people you knew. That familiarity is what makes the strigoi so unsettling. The threat did not always come from somewhere beyond the village. It could come from the cemetery where your own family was buried, from someone who had recently died, or e

The Keeper of the Flame In every culture, there are keepers of the flame—those who carry the memory of a people across generations, adapting it to new languages, new screens, and new worlds. In Romania, one of those keepers is Corneliu Țepeluș, a filmmaker, storyteller, and cultural ambassador whose life has been shaped by the timeless human pursuit of immortality—not the kind that denies death, but the kind that ensures meaning endures. His work bridges the mystical and the

In the heart of Brașov’s old town, framed by the Carpathian foothills, stands a building that has watched the city change around it for more than six hundred years. Locals call it Biserica Neagră, the Black Church. Its enormous Gothic walls have survived fire, religious upheaval, political transformation, war, restoration, and the gradual shrinking of the Saxon community that built it. Yet it has never become simply a monument to what was here before. Bells still ring. Worshi

Walk through almost any historic town in southern Transylvania and you will find traces of another world. There are fortified churches rising above villages, cobbled squares surrounded by pastel houses, old guild towers, Gothic spires, and German names that still sit beside Romanian ones: Kronstadt for Brașov, Hermannstadt for Sibiu, Schäßburg for Sighișoara. These are traces of the Transylvanian Saxons, a German-speaking population whose history here stretches back nearly ni

In the shadow of medieval churches and fortified towers, Bavarian beer tents, brass bands, dirndls, and lederhosen might seem like unlikely additions to the Transylvanian landscape. Yet each autumn, Oktoberfest celebrations appear across Romania, most visibly in Brașov, a city where German history is already deeply woven into the architecture and cultural memory of the region. The festival itself is a relatively recent arrival, but its presence here sits within a much older a

Perched above the Târnava Mare River, the citadel of Sighișoara has never existed only in the realm of documented history. Its towers, stairways, churches, and houses carry stories alongside the events historians can establish, and after centuries of retelling, the boundary between the two is not always easy to see. A Wallachian prince really did live here. German-speaking settlers really did establish a community on this hill. Ottoman power really did threaten the region, an